Introduction
This was my maiden tour and was completed 10th - 27th August 2012. As family were holidaying up in Scotland at the time, this cycle tour did include spells of driving and explains some of the routes I took.
Background
I bought my first bike about a year ago. It's this one. A Dawes Sardar, a little under 10 years old. I got this for £270, I chucked some phenomenal Marathon Plus tyres on it, got a cheap pannier rack and pannier bags (I'm a student, did my best to keep this cheap), got some Shimano clipless pedals and that was about it.
Stupidly, I did very little training. My one ride was 18 miles around where I lived, and I camped overnight to try and get used to my cheap camping gear. I might as well say this now - cheap is useless when it comes to camping. Details to follow...
Day 1&2, 70 mile anti-clockwise loop; Moffat - Peebles - Moffat
I did the first half of this route over an afternoon/evening, then camped near Peebles, and completed it by early afternoon the following day. The weather was great and the scenery absolute stunning. In retrospect, it wasn't a tough route at all, a few climbs but it was mainly fairly flat. However, at the time, having doubled my previous best in terms of daily mileage, I got off the bike in pain.
About 15 miles in I came to St Mary's Loch. Beautiful. There was a little cafe and toilets (about the only ones between Moffat and Innerleithen/Peebles.
I had planned to eat dinner at a pub about 21 miles into the route - however, it was shut down. The next food stop was the 35 mile mark at Innerleithen and was a huge relief when I arrived. After some difficulty finding somewhere to camp, I eventually stumbled upon the entrance of Cardrona Forestry Park (put this in to google maps and it'll come up). I'd spoken to a couple of locals along the way and they said that was my best bet, it's quiet and you won't get kicked out. And they turned out to be right!
After an mind-blowingly brilliant afternoon of cycing, the next morning was just as spectacular. For the return route I headed north west through Peebles, took the B712 through Stobo (on a local's recommendation), and then the A701 all the way back to Moffat. I'll let the pictures do the talking for this one, but just mention firstly that it felt pretty hard as all but the last 5 miles are a gradual climb, secondly that there aren't any stop off points for food, and thirdly that Moffat is a lovely little town - great to potter around, stock up, eat properly etc. Ok, onto the pictures...
Day 3, 0 miles, Luss (Loch Lomond)
Having met up with my folks in Moffat, and slept in a farmer's field (above, tent bottom right) just east of the town (plenty of farmers around to ask, the one I stopped was more than happy for me to), we drove the next day upto Loch Lomond. I'd heard that the main road near Luss, the A82, was not cycling-friendly and as we were arriving I soon realised this was the case. I spent the afternoon changing tomorrow's ride, recovering from my two half-day cycles, and I went walking. I did the first half of this route http://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/lochlomond/beinn-dubh.shtml and I would recommend it if you happen to be holidaying in the area and maybe want to get out of the saddle. Here's a pic of the view (warning, my phone camera is pretty terrible and especially so for shots like this...)
And that night - camping disaster. First night of rain and I woke up at 3.30am with a leaking tent. Luckily, I had decided not to wild camp and was right next to my folk's motorhome (some caravan sites were really good about this and let me pitch up next to it for free, where usually it would be about 10-15 quid for a non member per night). So I hopped in there for the remainder of the night and the next morning I threw my tent out and booked hostels. Turned out to the best decision of my life!
Day 4, 32 miles, anti-clockwise loop Luss - Garelochhead - Luss
Although the A82 is a bit of a bitch, along the stretch of water either side of Luss is the old A82 which is almost entirely disused and dedicated to a cycle path. It doesn't really show up on google maps but trust me it's there. The tarmac is still smooth and the road's wide, and it follows the water's edge all the way to Tarbet (my first pic of my bike - that is on this stretch).
So I headed north to Tarbet (unloaded bike as I would stay in the motorhome again that night), stopping off there for a quick lunch, and then continued west to Arrochar - a very cute little village/town on the northern edge of Loch Long. I continued down the side of the water and suddenly things started to get very steep. It had been flat all the way along but as soon as the A814 starts to come inland, the hill begins. This stretch was certainly tough, and I took a fair few stops (still way too unfit at this point). I didn't go into Garelochhead but instead kept heading east as much as possible, until stumbling on the road that cuts back across to Loch Lomond. All in all the route was enjoyable but challenging, the wind was a nuisance at times but this has been the case throughout the whole trip.
In terms of Luss itself, there isn't a huge amount there, although a shop that seems to sell anything and everything. I enquired about kayak hire but the nearest places were Millarochy on the other side of the water, and the other was Balloch, which I had seen and hadn't been impressed by.
Day 5, 37 miles, Oban - (Ferry) - Craignure - Dervaig (Isle of Mull)
And so began the start of my week long Island hops. Word of warning - I bought an 8 day Island hopper ticket, which allowed me access to any CalMac ferry for the entire 8 days I was travelling, for £55. However, I added up that the 7 ferries I would be using would individually have come to around £45 (as bikes are free). Not only would this have been a saving, but it means you dont have to worry about losing your pass. Just don't lose your wallet...
As you can see from the map, I headed north and cut across the Island to the west coast, stopped off at Calgary Bay to catch some rays before heading to my overnight stop in Dervaig. Mull is fantastic. Roads were on the whole in good condition, its dominated by single lane roads so there is a fair bit of stopping for traffic - particularly in the summer I suppose. The climbs got a little steeper as the ride went on, with the largest coming just before Calgary. The scenery was stunning, the traffic wasn't bad at all in truth, the beach was fab, and all in all it was a cracking day.
I stayed at a hostel in Dervaig, which was just around the corner from the pub and convenience store. It was in a village hall which was brilliant - it meant the kitchen was massive, there were good toilet facilities, everything was clean. Decent lounge area as well. Probably the most enjoyable night I had on the trip (google Dervaig Village Hall Hostel for details), and it was £15 which wasn't bad at all.
Day 6, 45 miles, Dervaig - Tobermory - (Ferry) - Kilchoan - Lochailort - (Train) - Mallaig
I started early (ish) so I could make the 8 miles to Tobermory in time for the first ferry of the day. At 8am the climbs out of Dervaig felt difficult but it wasn't long until I was hurtling down the roads into Tobermory. This place is gorgeous and has the most wonderful harbour.
The ferry was pretty quick and I was soon on my way up to Lochailort. Now this day to me sort of passed as a blur. That's not to say it wasn't scenic, it passed lochs, went through forests, small villages, from some of the pictures here you will see what I mean. The hills just got higher and steeper as the ride went on, and I'm guessing the day passed me by because I was tired and aching and just wanted to get it done. Not sure I entirely enjoyed the day and certainly didn't do the scenery justice.
I decided to get the train to Lochailort because I really was tired, and the wind was so heavy that a few miles out of the town, it had completely blown my bike over. Likely I managed to unclip just in time, but the bike went crashing into the fence and slightly damaged my pannier rack. That made me think enough was enough. With a railcard, the train was only £3.50 or so, and it saved me 20 miles so was certainly worth it. I'd heard from 2 guys who did do the cycle up to Mallaig that they had a tailwind most of the way, but they did come to the "hill of death" and it broke them so bad they opted for a B&B rather than camping in Mallaig.
The Mallaig hostel was above a tea rooms. It was busy and fairly small, and in all honesty I went out to the pub, came back late and left early. Thought it was the best solution. Not sure what other hostel choices there are in Mallaig, this one was £17.
Day 7, 44 miles, Mallaig - (ferry) - Armadale - Broadford - Portree (Isle of Skye)
Day 7 and my favourite ride of all the Islands. The entire route was a pleasure. The roads were in brilliant condition, they weren't too busy (Broadford to Portree was though), there were some gently climbs and the towns were lovely. The 14 miles or so to Broadford from the ferry terminal were very straightforward. I stopped here by Co-op - on the other side of the carpark there was a mobile van serving the likes of Angus burgers, Venison burgers, Sausage and Black Pudding rolls etc. I took brunch here, got out of the drizzle for half an hour, and believe me it was a brilliant decision. I then carried on north, turning off the increasingly busy main road where signposted for Moll - it takes you round the other side of Loch Ainort. It adds a couple miles to the journey but it has no traffic at all. One word of warning - the pot holes are pretty horrendous and the tarmac turns to gravel at certain points. My thin tyres got through them fine though (although they are pretty tough buggers).
Day 8, 60ish miles, Portree - Uig - (ferry) - Lochmaddy - South Lochboisdale (South Uist)
3 weeks in Scotland, and it's probably fair to expect some rain. While it came on day 8. It hammered it down, making the 18 miles to Uig not so pleasant. I took the direct route because I needed to catch a ferry, but the northern loop of the Island is supposed to be well worth doing. This route was ok though, the roads were perfect in terms of condition and there were some nice climbs but it's all very open (so unfortunately windy).
From Lochmaddy I stopped off at the Hebredian Smokehouse (signposted), which got me out of the rain. It was interesting to read about the smoking process and the history of the landscape, but the free samples weren't much to go by - so small you could barely taste it! However, it's free, so I won't complain too much! From here I travelled south, through North Uist to Benbecula to South Uist. It's all very similar in terms of landscape - it's supposed to be exceptional for wildlife but unfortunately I think the rain had kept alot of the birds and deer and otters out of site. The roads that link these separate Islands I thought were quite impressive, but all in all the ride felt long and because it's all so flat, I did get a little bored. This was the first time in my short cycling career where I had started to enjoy hill climbs (and once you get to this stage, it's a brilliant feeling!).
The hostel for the night was in South Lochboisdale. It was a small converted barn out the back of a blokes house. The bloke was a guy named Paul, who was incredibly welcoming and very friendly. He had been on the Island since he was 4, and in fact his mum was still living in the house she was born in. The hostel was sort of in the middle of nowhere, and although it wasn't the most well-equipped of places, Paul made it charming and it was only a tenner - the cheapest I found throughout my time in Scotland. He's just fitted a TV in there and I had the bunkhouse to myself, so in fact it turned out to be more enjoyable than most other nights. (I don't like busy places... or people...)
Day 9, 10 miles or so, South Lochboisdale - West coast - Lochboisdale
The day before, because of the rain, I hadn't taken any pictures. Day 9 was my day off, and aside from cycling to the ferry terminal, I took a detour to the west coast to check out the beaches. Paul informed me there was 24 miles of the stuff. Beautiful white sound, completely quiet, it was idyllic.
The 10 miles I covered were completely flat. I then endured a 5hr30mins ferry back to Oban, which was fine - it wasn't rough at all but I can imagine it would be at other times of the year. Oban was absolutely beautiful, lit up at night it the bay was stunning, there were plenty of places to have a drink and something to eat, but I opted for this seafood van on the water's edge. Langoustines in garlic butter, cheesy coleslaw, fresh baguette slices, £10. An utter delight! The hostel I stayed in was Corran House, I think this was up around £19 but it was nice, only 4 bunks in a room, and each room had its own TV. All in all my experience in Oban was fantastic. I will be back!
Day 10, 62 miles, Oban - Lochgilphead - Claonaig - (ferry) - Lochranza (Isle of Arran)
This was to be my longest day ride yet, and it turned out to be the most challenging of the whole holiday. The 25 miles or so out of Oban and before Kilmartin Glen had a few difficult climbs, but all in all it was definitely a fun stint - great scenery, including a beautiful loch which glistened in the early morning sunshine. Dropping down into Kilmartin I stopped off a few times, firstly at the castle, then at the museum, and finally at Dunadd fort. The castle was interesting, a little ruinous but enough to see and enough for the imagination to fill in the rest. Climbing the tower also gave pretty good views of the Glen. The museum was pretty disappointing in my opinion, if you're interested in the history and archeology, do your research before you come, and then scope out the areas of interest. I climbed Dunadd fort, which is basically just a large rocky mound, and there were good views to be had but I didn't feel much affected by the apparent significance of where I was standing.
Continuing south, the roads levelled out and instead of enjoying the ride, I was counting down the miles. I reached the edge of Tarbert which looked very pleasant, but I didn't stop and continued south. Turning off towards Claonaig takes you onto a single track road which is fine in condition, but pretty hellishly steep. I'd managed to hurt my right knee a little which made climbing very strenuous. I walked with the bike for some parts but I eventually made it to the tiny ferry terminal. I had set off at around 7.30 I think and I managed to catch the ferry that left at around 4. Although not great timing, I did stop of in Kilmartin for some considerable time, and the hill walks certainly slowed me down. The Isle of Arran looked stunning as we approached Lochranza, and getting off the ferry I made my way to SYHA Lochranza hostel. Word of warning - the midges were out to get me. For the first time on the trip they made me very uncomfortable. I had been warned about Arran and a covering of spray is certainly required. Although it didn't stop me getting bitten, the bites didn't irritate me at all. I'll give info at the end of everything I used, in case you find it useful.
The hostel was again quite a big one, but only 4 beds to each room, a sizeable kitchen, and was about £19 I think. I ate at the only pub (also hotel) in Lochranza, it was standard pub food but it was warm and filling and exactly what I needed!
Day 11, 26 miles, Lochranza - (west) - Machrie - Brodick - Lamlash
Day 11 was a short one. I had planned to take the direct route to Lamlash (where I had booked the hostel) but thought as I was there, I might as well see a bit more of the Island. Going south along the west coast, the views out across the water were good but it was hellishly windy. It was also hellishly flat and I was starting to crave some climbs.... and boy did I get what I wished for. Cutting across the Island through Machrie comes an almightly climb. Probably about 6 miles long, getting harder and harder as it goes on. I was happy to see it and I powered up it, only to face the biggest descent I've ever done. Clocking 50mph (at least - too scared to look down at my computer from then on!), I genuinely feared for my life - it was stupid for me to go that fast. But it must be said, I got a hell of a rush from it and was buzzing when I got to Brodick. If you have a day or so, there is plenty to do in Brodick - the castle was highly recommended as was the climb up Goatfell (apparently on a clear day you can see Ireland). As I only had a few hours, I just headed straight to Lamlash (2nd pic). This involved a short hill climb and the exact same descent. Lamlash itself was pretty, there were 3 or 4 pubs and a supermarket, and you can get trips out to Holy Island (3rd pic) during the summer. As it was fairly windy here by the water, I didn't suffer the same midge attack as I had at the north end of the Island.
The hostel I stayed at was kept by an old lady who was very sweet, but unfortunately hadn't maintaned the place so well. It was pretty disgusting in all honesty, and although only £12, I paid a tenner and explained why I couldnt give the full amount. In any case, I would recommend staying in Brodick, there's more going on and that's where the ferry terminal is.
Day 12, 46 miles, Lamlash - Brodick - (ferry) - Ardrossan - Ayr - Culzean Castle
And so ended my Island hops on day 12. The folks were driving down from Glencoe to Culzean castle and I would meet them there that afternoon. I might as well add - they had a fantastic time in Glencoe - said the scenery was phenomenal.They visited Fort William, went on a safari, they said it was excellent. They did also say, however, that the midges were an excruciating problem, which they had anticipated - but nothing can really prepare you for it!
From Ardrossan, I would follow the NCR towards Killwinning, and then join a different NCR all the way down past Ayr to Maybole, then cut across to Culzean. Well, in theory. To begin with, all was going well, I was happy to be cycling off the roads for a change, and the cycle paths were decent and the coast was very pretty to look out across along the way. What became difficult, however, was figuring out how to keep to the path. I got lost on several occasions and just kept following the coast south. When I got to Ayr, it completely flummoxed me and I decided to follow the coast from here too, instead of cutting inland to Maybole. This was a good choice as it meant I could start enjoying some climbs after what had been a very flat route so far. Reaching the top of the climb, I could see Culzean Castle sticking out along the coast - absolutely beautiful. I'm gutted I didn't stop to take a picture, but it was pretty much this http://www.visitscotland.com/cms-images/5x3-large/regions/ayrshire-arran/culzean-castle
All in all, the ride was a good one. Ayr was perhaps worth a stop, and my frustration at failing to keep to the route probably made me enjoy it less than I should have. This was the view of the Isle of Arran from the campsite, not too clear, but pretty cool to see where I had been just 24 hours previous to this.
Edinburgh Fringe
I then got a train to Edinburgh from Maybole and stayed for 3 days at the Fringe. I felt like this was a must, being in Scotland in August. The 3 days were brilliant and I would recommend it to anyone. I didn't take my bike but Edinburgh is supposed to be brilliant for cyclists - even during the festival there are of worthwhile routes near to the city.
Final day of cycling, the 100 miler, Kendal - Skipton (and back)
This day wasn't about the scenery or enjoyment, but personal achievement. I had unloaded my bike and I set off in good spirits. I had thought of doing a route through the dales, but as my computer wasn't working, I decided to just head for Skipton as the mileage was clearly signposted and I knew this way whether I would reach my target or not. The ride down was actually very enjoyable. It wasn't too hilly and there were good views on either side of me. I made the first 50 miles in just over 3 hours (it's amazing what a week of "training" and a light bike can do!).
The first 10 miles on the return leg felt horrible though, and I had to have a prolonged break. After resting my legs (and eyes), I clambered on, and the next 40 weren't too bad at all, except for the rain. The return leg to me longer, about 4 and a half hours, but I made it and I wasn't dying... I could have gone on a little while longer!
And I was absolutely chuffed. Thinking back over the tour, I remember finishing my first day of 35 miles and almost collapsing as I got off the bike. I remember having to have a rest day in Luss, remember the struggle to Lochailort, I remember injuring myself on the way down to Lochranza. This tour was about proving to myself I can have a bold idea and execute it, and I can create goals for myself and succeed in reaching them. I couldn't have finished it in any better way.
Tips
-- YOU MUST TOUR SCOTLAND. This was magnificent. Best 3 weeks of my life. I plan to go back and do the Isles of Harris and Lewis. I want to see Glencoe. And I've heard very good things about the Isles of Jura and Islay. Plenty more to explore!
-- YOU MUST TOUR SCOTLAND. This was magnificent. Best 3 weeks of my life. I plan to go back and do the Isles of Harris and Lewis. I want to see Glencoe. And I've heard very good things about the Isles of Jura and Islay. Plenty more to explore!
-- Udderly Smooth Chamois Cream - absolutely necessary and worth every penny
-- Be on a dose of B vits and carry midge spray - the combination meant that my bites didn't hurt at all, and I didn't get bitten all that often in truth.
-- If you're going to rest, take long ones (20mins or so), never short ones - they seem to do no good and just slow your rhythm.
-- Hugely recommend protein shakes for pre and post ride. Just regular whey protein does the job, and it's about the cheapest way to get the protein you'll need (try myprotein, and stick to simple flavours)
-- Hostels over camping any day of the week!
Cheers all. Any questions, email me martinprice_30@hotmail.com - always happy to help.
Cheers all. Any questions, email me martinprice_30@hotmail.com - always happy to help.
